Climbing Mountain
	Royalty fee for Climbing Peaks above 6500
	High Mountains of Pakistan
	Highest Peaks of Pakistan
	CLIMBING/ SKIING ON MUZTAGH ATA (7546M)
	CLIMBING EXPEDITION ON SPANTIK 2004/2005
	Climbing below 6500 meter Peaks
	MOUNTAINS OF PAKISTAN

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Climbing Mountains
The best-known attraction for the Mountaineers is the North of Pakistan. Northern part is in knot of four great mountain ranges, the Himalayas, the Karakoram, the Hindu-Kush and the Pamir with densest concentration of high peaks on earth, including the second highest peak, K-2 (8611M). Radiating out to the west on the border with Afghanistan lies the HINDU-KUSH whose eastern border is marked by the Ishkoman and Karumber River in Gilgit District, the eastern end of range known HINDU RAJ, means “Hindu Rule”. Following north from there the Pamir runs up into the former Soviet Union. Spreading from center to northeast along the border with China lies the KARAKORAM, the main block of the mountain in Pakistan, 250 kilometer wide. In the south corner separated by the Indus River, where lies the western Himalayan Range and Nanga Parbat 8125M is the western end pillar of this range. These ranges have more than 350 peaks ranging from 6000M to 8611M from seal level. The most famous among these are K-2, second only to the Everest, Nanga Parbat, the most dangerous peak and have the reputation of “KILLER MOUNTAIN” and highest cliff wall of the world, the “TRANGO TOWER GROUPS”.  There are five peaks out of fourteen above 8000M in this region.

“Mountaineering is a relentless pursuit. One climbs further and further yet never reaches the destination. Perhaps that is what gives it its own particular charm. One is constantly searching for something never to be found”

                                                                                                            (Hermann Buhl)

“North Pakistan Treks, Tours and Expeditions” may provide you all the services to the Base Camp including everything on an all-inclusive basis and can assist you at each step of your expedition to help make it a success.

As per new policy announced by the Government of Pakistan, the Ministry of Tourism, reduction of the royalty fee by 50% for climbing mountains above 6500M located in Pakistan during the calendar year of 2003 and 2004.

 The government of Pakistan has also decided to waive off the royalty fee peaks up to 6500M for the period of two years 2003 and 2004 in order to promote mountaineering and trekking in Pakistan. Therefore, you may climb the peaks below 6500M without paying the royalty fee, liaison officer and other government formalities/regulations are NOT required. However if the peaks come under the restricted zone one has to get trekking permit from the Ministry of Tourism to climb such peak.

For adventure lovers our alpine style programs offer incredible opportunities to climb the various peaks below 6500M, including the world famous rock wall “TRANGO TOWER 6286M” and technical peaks like ULIHAFO 6417M and HUNZA PEAK 6270M, without being engaged in time-consuming Government formalities.

HIGH MOUNTAINS OF PAKISTAN:

The mountain wealth makes the Pakistan an important mountain country and gives great opportunities to the climbers, trekkers, nature seekers and related mountain adventure activities. The compelling charm of these high, challenging, endless sea of rugged and ice pinnacles lure large number of mountaineers and nature lovers from across the continents to Northern Pakistan each year. Northern part of Pakistan, which is endowed with most unique geographical feature in the world, here three greatest, lofty and spectacular mountain ranges, Karakoram, Himalayas and Hindu-Kush. In an area about 500kms in width and 350kms in depth, is found the most dense collection of the some of the highest and precipitous peaks in the world, boasting more than 7000 peaks above 6000M and more than 160 peaks above 7000M. 

There are five peaks out of fourteen above 8000M high on the earth, the second highest rock pyramid, the K-2 (8611M), the Nanga Parbat (8125M), also known as the “Killer Mountain”, the Hidden Peak (8068), the Broad Peak (8047M) and the Gasherbrum-II (8035M).

Mount K-2:
Other names -                        Chogori and Mount Goldwin Austen Peak

Elevation -                              8611 meter/ 28253 feet

Location -                               Karakoram- Baltoro Skardu

Latitude -                               35°– 53 N

Longitude -                             76° – 31 E

Best Climbing months -           June to August

First climbed year -                 31st July 1954

First climber -                         Achill Compagoni, Lino Lacedell/Italian expedition

Nearest town -                        Skardu- Baltistan Northern Areas

Nanga Parbat:

Other names -                        Dimir Peak

Elevation -                              8125 meter/ 26658 feet

Location -                              Western corner of Himalayas- Chilas Gilgit

Latitude -                               35°– 14 N

Longitude -                            74° – 36 E

Best Climbing months -          June to September

First climbed year -                1953 via Rakhiot Face

Faces -                                 Three Faces, Rkahiot on the North, Diamir on 

the West and Rupal on the south

First climber -                        Herman Buhl

Nearest town -                       Chilas-Gilgit Northern Areas

Gasherbrum-I:

Other names -                       Hidden Peak, K-5

Elevation -                             8068 meter/ 26471 feet

Location -                             Karakoram- Baltoro Skardu

Latitude -                              35° - 43 N

Longitude -                            76° – 42 E

Best Climbing months -          June to August

First climbed year -               1958 via SW Ridge

First climber -                       Pete Habeler, Andy Kauffmann

Nearest town -                      Skardu- Baltistan Northern Areas

Broad Peak:

Other names -                      K-3, Falchen Kangri

Elevation -                            8047 meter/ 26400 feet

Location -                             Karakoram- Baltoro Skardu

Latitude -                              35° – 48 N

Longitude -                           76° – 33 E

Best Climbing months -         June to August

First climbed year -               1957 via West Spur

First climber -                       Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberge, Markus Schock and Fritz

Nearest town -                      Skardu- Baltistan Northern Areas

Gasherbrum-II:  

Other names -                      K-4

Elevation -                            8035 meter/ 26360 feet

Location -                            Karakoram- Baltoro Skardu

Latitude -                             35° – 45 N

Longitude -                          76° – 39 E

Best Climbing months -        June to August

First climbed year -              1958 via SW Ridge

First climber -                      Pete Habeler and Kauffmann

Nearest town -                     Skardu- Baltistan Northern Areas

HIGHEST PEAKS OF THE WORLD:

CLIMBING/ SKIING ON MUZTAGH ATA (7546M):

Muztagh Ata means “ Father of Ice Mountains” in local language Kazakh and Uigur, both are Turkish dialects. The massif of Muztagh Ata lies in the Kunlun Shan range on the high plateau in Western China, where nomadic herders line and tend their roving flocks. It is a huge mountain-massive, which consists of two summits, one of them is 7546m high and other is 7130m. The distance between them is 2 km. This program gives possibility to ascent both summits from the same Base Camp of Muztagh Ata. It takes 15-20 days to main summit according to the professional level of

participants. It is second highest peak in this range and world’s easiest peak in above 7500 meters. Trek to the Base Camp sets us up for the climb and allows us to experience the diversity of the landscape and its people.

BACKGROUND:

First tries to climb Muztagh Ata were made in 1894 by Swedish geographers Sven Hedin from the West. In his two attempts he reached same altitude of 6300m. The first historic ascent of the Muztagh Ata summit had been realized in 1956 by Soviet-China expedition led by Eugene Beletsky following the route outlined by Hedin. In 1980 an American group was allowed to climb and ski, they broke world female record an altitude ski. This is only ski peak in the world in 7500m. Following them there were many expeditions from all over the world is crowed with success so far.

ROUTE:

The normal route of Muztagh Ata from West, not difficult technically and good for not competent mountaineers, because of high altitude above the sea level all along the route participants should be well prepared. The climb is very straightforward technically and suitable for the skiers who want to combine skiing with trip high altitude in the Himalayas. It is considered to be the easiest peak in the world in 7500m peaks. Alternative Muztagh Ata is superb place to discover the world of high altitude climbing. With summit reaching 7546m, this expedition is excellent preparation for an 8000m-peak climb.

CAMPING:

The Base camp is at the altitude of the about 4450m and higher camps are set up normally around at the altitude of about,

Camp-I (5200m)

Camp-II (6200m)

Camp-III (6800m)

Duration:

28 to 30 days from Islamabad to back Islamabad

Time Summary or Itinerary:

Day 01 – 03: Arrival to Islamabad and transfer to

Day 04 – 05: Drive to Tashkurgan via Khunjerab Pass and continue to 

                    Karakul Lake and trek to the Base Camp, overnight at tents

Day 06-21     16-days for acclimatization and climb

Day 22-24:    Trek back to Karakul Lake and transfer to Sost then to Karimabad

Day 25 –27:  Transfer to Islamabad

Day 28:         Departure from Islamabad (drop to the airport)

CLIMBING EXPEDITION ON SPANTIK 2004/2005

NORTH PAKISTAN is organizing an Expedition on Spantik 7027M Peak in 2004 that is named “NORTH PAKISTAN INTERNATIONAL SPANTIK 7027M EXPEDITION 2004”. We offer all the climbers around the world, who would like to join this expedition and need to send the particulars at least before the June and may have contact with us for more details.

Route:                             Normal Route

Duration:                         31-days from Islamabad to back Islamabad

Meeting of members:      At Islamabad at 25^th July 2004

Type of Expedition:         Unguided Expedition

Mode of payment:         20% should be transferred to our Bank account in 

advance to confirm the participation and the rest of amount can be paid after your 

arrival to Islamabad before departing to the mountain

Terms and Conditions: The expedition will start from Islamabad and all

 the expedition members will join here and proceed to the mountain all together 

with leader and while coming back from the Base Camp all members should be 

together, if someone stays more in the Base Camp and if someone wants to go 

earlier or latter to the Base Camp, should pay extra. High Altitude food, tents, 

climbing equipments, high altitude porters and any service beyond the Base 

Camp is NOT included in our services.

For more details you may contact:

Tel: 0092-51-2535766

Cell: 0092-333-5276586

Fax: 0092-51-2855440

northpak@isb.comsats.net.pk

northpakistan@dsl.net.pk

ishaq_jan@yahoo.com

SPANTIK/7027M BY NORMAL ROUTE:

The Spantik that is also called the Yengutz Peak is the part of the mountain chain, which forms the boundary between Hunza-Nager and Baltistan in one of the quieter parts of the Karakoram. The people from Hunza and Nager Valley called the mountain GOLDEN PEAK/GOLDEN PILLAR form this side. Viewed from Hunza-Karimabad, the sun setting on Golden Pillar is a truly remarkable sight. The ascend of the Pillar from this side, difficult through North Pillar that is technical route, first climbed by British mountaineers in 1987, was milestone in technical difficulty for Himalayan Mountaineers.

The other side (from Skardu-Balistan) of the mountain is less daunting and offers a route to the summit that more of climbers achieve. On this side Spantik Peak is at the head of CHOGOLUNGME GLACIER in Arandu Valley- Skardu. It is usually climbed from Chogolungme Glacier (Arandu side), via the relatively easy long South East Ridge that is called NORMAL ROUTE.

Route:

The climb a long the South East Ridge is the most achievable route of any 700m Peak in the Pakistani Karakoram. This route is generally considered a safe and technically easy route and has become the obvious target for commercially organized expeditions looking for straightforward ascent to 7000m. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-Km length affording several safe campsites. The climb through long and arduous is not technically difficult. The average gradient is 30 to 45 degree but there some short steps that provide some climbing interest. Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective, an ideal next step for those who previously climbed a 6000m peak or those preparing for an 8000m expedition.

Background:

It was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock-Workman by this route that reached up to the 6700m, a female altitude record at that time. A German expedition who made the first successful ascent the mountain by this route in 1955 and repeated several times since.

Approach:

Lying to the south of the great Hispar Glacier and standing above the remote upper Chogolungma Glacier, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path starting from the Village of ARANDU follows the beautiful ablution Valley a long the side of the Choglungma Glacier, with stunning vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks all the way to Base Camp. Arandu is connected to Skardu by jeep able road and Skardu is administrative capital of Baltistan and based for the expeditions for several peaks.

Higher Camps:

The Base Camp is at the altitude of about 4300m and higher camps are set up normally at about altitude of

Camp-I (5250m)

Camp-II (5650m)

Camp-II (6250m)

Climbing:

The South East Ridge of Spantik is one of the most attainable routes to a 7000m summit in the Karakuram. From a rocky Base Camp (4300m) on the edge of Chogolungma Glacier, the route follows moderately angled snow slopes. The ridge goes up 2700m higher over its 8-Km length. The slopes are mostly 30 degree less with a short section of 40 degree. Base Camp is at the altitude of 4300m and Camp-I is located on a series of rocky platforms close to snowline. From Base Camp-I follows a moderately steep slope on grass then high up changes to a scramble up rocky ridge with platform loose screen. The route then follows the long undulating ridge mostly on snow to large level site of Camp-II (4-5hrs). Above this slope steeped and 500-600m of rope normally be fixed between Camp-II and III. The first section of 400m will be fixed on open 35° slopes leading to a large snow platform. Sometime the climbers use this as a campsite. After a few hundred meters there is easy ground then slope of 40° sections where 150m ropes will be fixed, before reaching an obvious crest on the ridge. Here is place of the Camp III (6250m), on a wide snow ledge below the summit slopes and 4-5 hrs from Camp-II. The route to summit from Camp-III is quite straightforward. A gentle slope a height of 6650 where it steepness to join the South West Ridge. This is then follow for 400m at an average angle of 30° until it levels out 100m below the summit, where will be equipped with fix rope. The top of mountain is a rounded snow dome and 50m of rope may be fixing on the short section leading onto the summit slopes (6-8 hrs ascent 2-3 hrs descent).

The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring mountains Rakaposhi 7788m and Diran 7258m as well as Ulter, Batura and Haramosh peaks and in the distance the giant peaks of the central Karakuram including Mt. K-2.

Time Summary or itinerary:

We start our trip from Islamabad to Skardu by road on Karakuram Highway to Chilas (11-12 hrs drive) then next day 7-8 hrs to Skardu. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle of many travelers purchasing supplies and hiring porters. Our next destination is the small village ARANDU, which is 85-Km Jeep journey a long narrow mountain road. After hiring the porters we will start the trek to the Base Camp.

Equipment Note:

We will provide only Base Camp equipment, you will arrange high altitude equipment and also you need to bring your own personal equipment including ice axe, helmet, ascender (e.g. petzl /jumar), descending deice (preferable a figure of 80, crampons, rope, rucksack, climbing harness, plastic mountaineering boots, wind/waterproof cloths, sleeping bag, mattresses, down/duvet Jacket, rain suit, warm cloths and other personal necessary equipments etc.

Physical Fitness and Health:

To participate this trip you must be very fit, active trekker with climbing skill and in a good health. Prior to joining this trip, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude and also for exotic locals. Make sure that you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before start this climb. Malaria is found on the plains of Pakistan, although it is not as common as in wetter areas of the Pakistan. There is none of the disease in the mountains, but you will still need to take anti-malaria drugs. It is best to assume all tap water and steam water is not safe to drink. During the trek to and at the Base camp you will get boil water to drink but you may take the a variety of tablets or alternatively take a small bottle of tincture of iodine and put a couple of drops in each liter of water you want to treat. The group would have an extensive communal first kit.

Expedition Member Experience:

Although Spantik is an extremely easy and low angle mountain, the member should have knowledge of roped climbing techniques. It is also required that all the members will have awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite and recognition of their symptoms, prevention and treatment.

Visa:

You need a visa to enter the Pakistan. These can be obtained relatively easily from a Pakistani embassy or consulate in your country. You need a single entry tourist visa .

Tel: 0092-51-2535766

Cell: 0092-333-5276586

Fax: 0092-51-2855440

northpak@isb.comsats.net.pk

northpakistan@dsl.net.pk

ishaq_jan@yahoo.com